Organic Foods and the Quest for Authenticity
Some months ago I blogged on a Wall Street Journal op-ed by Whole Foods Market CEO John Mackey, whose libertarian views on the health-care reform issue provoked some efforts at a consumer boycott. At the time, I mentioned that the WSJ editorial board was happy to embrace Mackey — for the moment. From a “macro” perspective, however, I observed that the very existence of Mackey’s company was problematical from a libertarian perspective. Setting aside the health-care issue, the attitude of the free-market crowd toward the natural-foods phenomenon generally is one of at least mild belittlement, I argued.
Sure enough, Tuesday’s WSJ brings a review of a new offering by Canadian journalist Andrew Potter, entitled The Authenticity Hoax. We learn that “the ever-narrowing search for just the right kind of food has less to do with saving the environment or pursuing a healthy lifestyle than with achieving a certain self-image…. the search for authenticity often ends up as a status-seeking game…. By competing against one another to see who is more authentic, he says, we just become bigger phonies than we were before.” Affluent consumers have fallen prey to a new form of status-seeking in the form of “conspicuous authenticity.” Reviewer Paul Beston of the Manhattan Institute concludes that “Mr. Potter is here to tell us what should be obvious: that there is no paradise back there, that we moderns have never had it so good and that authenticity in the way we’ve defined it is a sham,” although he does allow as that “while much of the authenticity search is absurd, not all of it is so easily separable from the self-criticism that has been foundational to Western success.”
In my opinion, the article reflects not so much on the author or the reviewer as on the editorial board that solicited the review. The rhetorical pressure exerted by the review is anything but “traditionalist” — no matter that it serves the purposes of this editorial board to pose at times as defenders of “traditional values.” Indeed, the pressure is all in the direction of “hyper-modernism” — you’ve never had it so good, so don’t give a second thought to what might be going on behind the scenes. As I mentioned some months ago, you might think this would prompt John Mackey to have a second thought or two about his libertarianism. The very existence of his company suggests that there is something wrong with the superabundance of foodstuffs to be found in the supermarkets and supercenters that the market economy has supplied so lavishly. Generally, free-market enthusiasts are unwilling to take the organic-food movement sitting down.
Only the most affluent are able to take much of their time seeking out organic or locally-produced food – and their enthusiasms leave them open to caricature. Still, our economic system, with its chain stores and mass production, while it confers considerable benefits, also prompts unease. Some people may alter their purchasing habits out of a consumerist search for “authenticity,” but others may be concerned that, while human biology hasn’t changed radically in the past century or so, what we eat and the way it is produced has changed radically.
In some senses, a more localized agricultural economy with organic methods of production might be better. However, I don’t see how it can come about until and unless the economy as a whole moves in the same direction — which probably will require much higher energy prices. That might be better on the whole, although the transition to it might be wrenching in the extreme….